This restaurant in Berkeley attracts long queues for lunch, and its newly introduced dinner service is even more exceptional.

I was taken aback to discover that Regular Menu, a beloved daytime café in Berkeley, had started offering dinner. I had always thought that owner Kelsie Kerr was solely focused on lunch, the kind of seasoned chef who would prefer to chop onions with a blunt knife rather than tackle another evening service, and had structured her establishment around that. By 11:30 a.m., a queue of devoted patrons gathers at the wheelchair ramp, and soon after, the outdoor benches and stools are completely filled. By 2:30 p.m., the kitchen shuts down for the day.

However, Kerr never intended to operate a neighborhood lunch spot. In reality, she isn't particularly keen on sandwiches. When she launched Regular Menu in 2014, it was located in a historic brick structure in West Berkeley that contained commercial kitchens. Her original idea was to create a food business focused on selling ready-to-eat meals for takeout. Unfortunately, that approach didn’t succeed, prompting her to shift gears and draw on her extensive background from renowned Bay Area establishments such as Zuni Café, Square One, and Chez Panisse.

Zoning regulations created a challenge for Regular Menu. It wasn't allowed to function as a traditional sit-down restaurant, nor could it serve alcohol. Over the last ten years, it has carved out a niche with its offerings of hearty porridges and vegetable-laden frittatas, held together by just a touch of egg. For lunchtime, the menu features an array of soups, salads, and inventive salad sandwiches, which often consist of a vibrant mix of greens tucked between two slices of pizza bianca. Patrons place their orders at the counter and find spots to sit wherever they can. While it may not have been the vision Kerr had in mind, this daytime-only neighborhood eatery is the reality she has created.

View pictures in App save up to 80% data.

That all changed last summer, when Kerr launched Regular Menu 3.0. After years of working with the city to secure four different permits, the restaurant — now officially a restaurant, and one licensed to sell wine and beer — is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday. As opposed to the lunch menu, which varies from day to day, the evening menu changes weekly. 

This is fantastic news, particularly for those of us who aren’t able to enjoy a Tuesday lunch at Regular Menu on a regular basis. Kerr’s lunches are delightful, but her dinners take it to another level. While her sandwiches are great, there’s so much more she provides that goes beyond a quick lunch option. 

Kerr's culinary background clearly influences her cooking style, which is focused on seasonal ingredients and fresh produce. During the winter months, her menu may come across as minimalistic to some, especially those who are not fond of bitter greens or lesser-known root vegetables. In late December, her offerings included chicories, kale, escarole, spinach, and mustard greens. It's quintessentially Berkeley cuisine, featuring brown rice and beans, Acme bread, and house-made pickles. Kerr treats each ingredient with care and simplicity, allowing its natural flavors to take center stage. Though I never had a particular fondness for parsnips, trying her rosemary parsnip pudding soufflé ($23) has completely changed my perspective.

View pictures in App save up to 80% data.

Regular Menu is not without its indulgences. Kerr likes to keep something fried on the menu, and I recommend you order it as a foil for her salads, always expertly dressed with a good amount of acid. She sometimes offers a fritto misto of seasonal veg ($16), a tribute to her former boss Judy Rodgers. Recently, it’s been kabocha squash, broccolini and onion, served on a swoosh of rice wine and soy aioli. During a visit last month, it was delicata squash, onion and fennel, the garlicky mayonnaise perfumed with saffron. The thin, breaded rings and half moons were divine in their simplicity, even better chased with a forkful of golden beets and little gems slicked with buttermilk and chives.

Aioli also features prominently in the devilish eggs ($4.50), a classic offering from the snack menu. I can’t quite imagine Kerr, who resembles a young Sissy Spacek and makes her own outfits, meticulously working with a piping bag and star tip. Instead, the jammy boiled eggs are simply halved and generously coated with a zesty mayonnaise infused with finely chopped fermented pickles and their tangy brine. They are straightforward, a bit messy, and served as two halves per order, so be sure to plan ahead.

For the main courses, guests can look forward to a selection that includes fish, meat, and a vegetarian dish, each accompanied by a vegetable and a starch. There are additional sides available, and if Kerr has beans on offer, don't pass them up. Beans are her personal favorite, and she features them so prominently on the Regular Menu menu that she once received an anonymous letter criticizing their almost constant presence. She prepares them simply, using only water and salt, to truly highlight their natural flavor. During one of my visits, she served Tuscan Soranas from Iacopi Farms topped with chile crisp ($8.50) and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. If I could choose my next life, I would gladly return as a bean swimming in that delightful broth.

View pictures in App save up to 80% data.

Kerr collaborated with Alice Waters on “The Art of Simple Food,” and it's easy to draw parallels between the culinary styles of Chez Panisse and Regular Menu. However, their differences are equally pronounced. Chez Panisse exudes a cozy atmosphere with its wooden accents, stained glass, and copper details. In contrast, Regular Menu features expansive industrial windows, which can leave diners feeling chilly on winter nights, often requiring them to keep their coats on during the meal. The restrooms are situated outside the main dining area, in a shared hallway with other food establishments. Unlike traditional dining experiences, there is no table service here; patrons place their orders at the counter before finding a seat, similar to a lunch setting, though they can request additional wine or dessert from a server once they start their meal.

This isn't to imply that Regular Menu falls short in hospitality. Quite the opposite, as Kerr has nurtured a business and a team that are deeply entrenched in the local community. She personally greets guests at their tables and surprises the children with treats like roasted cauliflower, almost like a benevolent fairy who transforms vegetables into delightful bites. During one of my visits, I overheard a couple seated nearby expressing their intention to return for the duck confit. When their server informed them it would only be available for one more day, they shrugged it off, saying it was no issue at all. They were locals and would be back the very next day.

Reach MacKenzie Chung Fegan: [email protected]

Regular Menu

2701 Eighth St. #118, Berkeley. standardfareberkeley.com

Hours: 8:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 4:30-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday

Accessibility: Wheelchair ramp to the front door; accessible tables, but seating can be tight; outdoor seating

Noise level: Usually not too loud

Meal for two, without drinks: $70-$100 for dinner

What to order: The menu changes weekly, but grab the devilish eggs ($4.50), fritto misto ($16) and beans ($8.50) if you happen to see them.

Meat-free options:  A vegetarian (and sometimes vegan) starter and entrée are always available